lunes, agosto 21, 2006

Slack On

Oh, happy day of all happy days! The sun is shining, the birds are singing and our eerily early spring weather has lifted our spirits! Too bad I just bought a hot water bottle.... but bygones.

My happiness also stems from the fact that I am typing this from my brand-spanking-new laptop. The deterioration of my first laptop, a mere month old, had me in a tizzy for quite some time. My reliance on not only my files and the Internet, but mobility (read: ability to work at Starbucks in Las Condes) made me kind of depressed these last few weeks. Rather than get to the root of the problem, or attempt to fix it, I just got a new computer. HAPPY GIRL!

Somehow, we are two weeks away from the arrival our new class of volunteers. How did this happen? I feel like I've been here for years, like I've known my kids since birth, and at the same time, I still have now idea what the hell I'm doing.

I have mixed feelings about new people. Just when you begin to get you bearings, everything shifts. Things have to be explained over again. People leave. I'm getting a new roommate. I don't think that I'm particularly adaptable, but I'm doing my best.

Everything here happens with such intensity. Part of the reason I feel like I know everyone so well is because I know their secrets. I've read the files on my kids. I know what they've been through. There is a campaign in Santiago (possibly all of Chile) called "Una cama para un nino" or One Bed for One Child. It is common for families, siblings, etc. to share beds because of the expense of buying a bed for every child, or the lack of space. Extended families commonly live altogether, but not everyone can afford to live in a giant house, with each member in their own room. I understand, now, why my Ojos never sits in her chairs. I constantly have to tell her to sit down and work, instead of leaning on the table on top of me, scribbling and babbling and repeating everything everyone says. Of course, it completely freaks her out is I say something in English, which I occasionally do out of frustration. I'm surprised that she hasn't picked up the phrase 'Seriously, why are you doing this to me?'

She hasn't. My English confuses her and she sits back down, obviously uncomfortable. Because at home, she doesn't sit. At home, there isn't a chair.

I don't think that there is a Chilean phrase for personal space. If there is, I don't know it. People, children especially are so used to living and breathing on top of each other at home, that they either forget or don't care when they are out in the world who they are touching. My kids, whose special needs compound their lack of appropriate boundries, touch me all the time. I'm not a touchy feely kind of person. I'm not a hand-holder. At least not without tequilla. On my first day of school, my kids were so desperate to hold my hand that I let them crawl all over me, anxious for their affection and acceptance. Kids will be kids, and they're too cute for me to get overly frustrated with the fact that at any time, in any location, and under any circumstance, I could just be grabbed, or punched or kicked (the kicking, however, is generally b/c someone needs their shoes tied). What more can you expect from a child who shares a bed with as many as three relatives? Still, sometimes I just want to scream.

The adults, I actually scream at. Not the lady on the micro with the fourteen shopping bags, one of which is in my lap. Nor at the man in the collectivo in the business suit who has both of his shiny feet on my side of the floor and WILL NOT MOVE THEM. No screaming necessary. Better just to scuff his loafers with my beat up Birkenstock clogs.

But I scream at men in the bars. While I tried to devote the majority of this blog to work and travel, I'm not going to deny that I like to go out and have a good time. I like Escudo and Pisco and Tequila. I love dancing, and singing all of the worlds to the english language music so that I make friends with the group of Chilenas next to me, who are trying deperately to hate me because I'm rubia. So with the singing, and the dancing and the drinking, come the men. In most places, its fairly easy to pick me out of the crowd. I don't blend, and as a result, and the target of some of the stupidest pick-up lines, in English, that I've ever heard. To add insult to injury, these are generally spoken to me from about 3 inches from my face. Invading my personal space to insult my intelligence and butcher my language when I am perfectly capable of talking to you in the language NATIVE TO THE COUNTRY THAT WE ARE STANDING IN is not ok. I scream.

I scream that my blonde hair does not make me easy. I scream that yes! I can speak spanish, and you saying 'I love you" in english over and over again does not do it for me. I scream that no, I'm not a student, or a backpacker, or rich. I scream that why can't a dance be just a dance?

But such is life. Its true that all women love attention, and I'm not pretending that I'm the exception. I just wish I could remember the exact moment that I surrendered all of my privacy. I guess it was that Friday that I got on the plane.

miércoles, agosto 09, 2006

The Poor Man's San Francisco

2 posts today, since I'm a little behind....

This is how someone decribed Valparaiso to me. And visually, its true: the place is steep and hilly. There are cafes with funny looking cups and live music, walls covered in poetry and It has a general sense of calm, especially compared with the crowded and cautious feeling in Santiago. But more than San Francisco it had....culture? Not to insult my second favorite city, but I always felt as though it had a more 'J.Crew meets bohemian' quality to it. I love its tolerance and politics, but still, its a clean and friendly city. Valparaiso isn't clean, but it is beyond friendly. We stayed in a Residencia, with a perfect view of the ocean, run by an older woman who had color coded the keys, so that we would have an easy time getting in at night (ahem..morning). She served us breakfast in a sun room overlooking the port. She brought us extra blankets. Really, what more does a person need?

And then there's the elevators. Because of the hills, there is a system of elevators running up and down throughtout the city, taking people to all of the important places. I am afraid of elevators, especially ones built in 1887. But I'd be liar if I didn't say that sitting in a clattering wood lift, looking out over the ocean in Chile wasn't one of the best experiences I've had so far.

Of course, there was also the great coffee, salsa dancing, insane 'other' dancing, non-Chilean beer, cobble stone streets, intimate conversation, no-work, fish market, Pablo Neruda, Flea Market, Muebles (oh, my sweet muebles), and colo colo records. Not bad for a 1.5 hour bus trip.

lunes, agosto 07, 2006

Funny in Spanish....

I have to begin this post by saying that I am wearing four shirts, and a jacket, while sitting at my computer in the casa. It is cold, but it's always cold. Today has felt colder for a simple reason.: They turned on the estufa (heater) at school today, and I think it completely ruined my resolve. I had actually forgotten what it was like to be warm, without being in bed or a collective, and was perfectly happy that way. But today...everything has changed. I'm WEAK! But with the cold, you also get this:



Today was a kind of weird day for a number of reasons. Once again, the rain prevented most of the kids from coming to school, but instead of going home I insisted on staying and doing whatever everyone else was doing. Little did I know that our activity would be one of my favorites: gossip. Man, so my tias love the gossip. So we had our tomasito, and chatted, and they made fun of the fact that I carry a small dictionary everywhere. I learned that Tia M has a ridiculously good-looking (jovencito) son in the military, and that she really misses him. I learned that another tia has been nuts since her divorce, and knows three phrases in English: "Of course" "I am English" and "Go to the window".

I don't consider myself especially friendly. I have friends, but I've never been the girl that everyone wants to know or anything. In English, I probably still would't be talking to my tias, or finding out about their lives. I'd be reading in the corner or pretending to watch ViVa! Humor, in my mind anyway, is what I have to offer, and I'm usually to shy to try to make a joke. What I realize now is that to my tias, and presumably Chillenos in general, I'm funny just for being here, and being blonde, and wearing a blazer. And carrying a dictionary.

As I found out last night, after giving a presentaion to my voluntarios about the Colegio, I can be funny in Spanish. This is a great shock, as the line between being laughed at and being laughed with is even more blurry when its being translated. Our meetings, even though most of us speak English, are conducted in Spanish. It makes me incredibly nervous, because presenting to a bunch of English speakers, many with perfect Spanish, and a bunch of Spanish speakers, many of whom have perfect English, makes you the asshole. I don't want to be wrong, and I don't want to insult anyone. But oh, the importance of tone! You can say just about anything, pause, say it again, and get a laugh. Its quite the confidence booster. And besides, how could I really be intimidated by these people?